In January 1943, after landing in Oran, Algeria for WWII's Operation TORCH, my father, Capt. Arthur L. Ludwick, M.D. and his 133rd Infantry Regiment, (of the 34th "Red Bull" Infantry Division) spent only a month in the vicinity, training and organizing. However, he did spend a little time in Algiers, probably in 1944, on his way to and/or from Italy. So, I decided to start my North African pilgrimage there, in the capital of Algeria, beautiful “Algiers la Blanche,” the White City.
The view of its whitewashed buildings built into the hillside overlooking the stunning, blue Mediterranean Sea, was breathtaking. I tried to imagine my rather naive/untraveled father-from-the-midwest there, in this very foreign Muslim/French colony in North Africa. It must have been culture shock. While in Algiers, he was not in combat, but most likely catching up with administrative duties as a medical officer and regimental combat surgeon, as well as treating the men in his regiment for mostly minor ailments.
I was traveling with a small group of women, just three of us, on an Overseas Adventure Tour (OAT). We spent only 8 days in Algeria, but were still able to visit many historical/UNESCO sites, including: some of the best-preserved archeological Roman ruins in North Africa, showcasing that ancient civilization’s mind-blowing innovations and advanced engineering; cultural museums; art galleries; fabulous food and handmade crafts markets; two mosques; and an up-close-and-personal glimpse into two very different family homes.
For the purpose of this WWII-related North Africa Travel Diary, I will focus on places I visited with that in mind.
See the photo gallery for a visual tour of Algiers and its rich culture, traditions, and history. Note the photos of General Dwight D. Eisenhower's WWII headquarters for Operation TORCH.
A FEW FACTS ABOUT ALGERIA
•Algeria is the largest country in Africa situated on the Mediterranean Sea (see map) that has endured centuries of invasion by foreign civilizations who sought to acquire strategic Mediterranean trade advantages and exploit the country’s natural resources.
•95% of the population is Muslim, but it also has a significant Berber population. These influences, along with those of the Ottomans and French who separately ruled over the country, coalesced into a uniquely Algerian culture. Most citizens speak French, Arabic, and some English; all street/store/travel signs are in French and Arabic.
•The government owns most of the land, but if you live in a house for 25yrs, you can then own it.
• Education is free – even higher education. After high school, students take the Baccalaureate exam, which determines their eligibility and field of study for university. University students often commute from home, as it’s common to live with family until marriage;
•The rugged Atlas Mountains act as a barrier between the Mediterranean and Sahara Desert.
• Major crops are olives, dates, and cereals, and it’s rich in many important minerals.
•Algeria has closed its borders to Morocco over a land boundary dispute in Western Sahara. And, it has severed diplomatic relations with Morocco due to the fact that Morocco has aligned itself politically with Israel, while Algeria supports the Palestinian agenda.
Scroll to the next posts and photo gallery tours of the centuries old "Casbah of Algiers," the ancient Roman ruins of Djemila, and the extraordinary "City of Bridges," Constantine.
Posted April 01, 2026
My father's typed caption on back: "Ambulance: 1/2 horse power." After the NA campaign ended in May 1943, the 168th was sent back to Algiers to board a ship to Italy in late September 1943. (see the Italy Travel Diary tab)
In the fall of 2024, I made a month long trip to North Africa to retrace my father's routes and battlefields on the frontlines of WWII as a Medical Officer and combat regimental surgeon. First stop, was Algiers, Algeria. Algeria is a Muslim nation and the largest country in Africa, situated on the Mediterranean Sea (see map) that has endured centuries of invasion by foreign civilizations who sought to acquire strategic Mediterranean trade advantages and exploit the country’s natural resources. All citizens speak French, Arabic, and some English; all street/store/travel signs are in French and Arabic.
A panoramic view of beautiful Algiers, "The White City."
The Algerian flag: green represents the land and is the color of Islam; white represents peace; red represents the blood shed; the crescent moon is a symbol of an Islamic nation; the red star represents the 5 pillars of Islam: faith (one god), prayer (5x/day), almsgiving (to those in need), fasting (during Ramadan); and pilgrimage (to Mecca).
The 3 intrepid travelers in Algiers: Peggy, Susie, & Mary
We were met in Algiers by our guide, Luna, a young Muslim woman with a masters degree in journalism. She was very knowledgeable about Algerian history and proud to show us her beloved country. Luna is wearing a Hijab, a traditional head covering for Muslim women. She also always wore flowing garments that concealed the curves of her body.
As luck would have it, in Algiers we stayed in a very historic hotel, Hotel El Djazair, built in 1514 as a palace; a couple of centuries later, it became a girls’ boarding school, and in the late 1800s, evolved into a hotel, the St. George. Little did I know that this hotel, for over a year during WWII, was where General Dwight D. Eisenhower made his headquarters for Operation TORCH during the North African campaign and where, along with other Allied world leaders, planned the invasion of Italy in September 1943. Also known as St. George Hotel.
The hotel grounds were lovely.
We were to see exquisite/decorative tiles and designs throughout North Africa.
Who knew that our hotel had preserved Eisenhower's WWII and private headquarters for all of these years. This bronze plaque was on the wall in the hallway leading to where so many key wartime strategies and major planning/strategies were made.
WWII Hall of Fame at the Hotel El Djazair in Algiers.
General Dwight D. Eisenhower, Commander in Chief of the Allied Expeditionary Forces in North Africa, maintained his headquarters in this room from Nov 1942 to December 1943, monitoring Operation TORCH and planning the invasion of Sicily and Italy in the fall of 1943.
The meeting room where Allied leaders met to plan NA campaign and invasion of Italy.
Hotel El Djazair in Algiers. As head of the U.S. 5th Army, Gen. Dwight D. Eisenhower’s headquarters were here for 18 months during WWII. General Mark Clark decorated my father with the Silver Star for "gallantry-in-action" in Italy, for his heroic actions in treating and evacuating soldiers from his 168th Infantry Regiment who were pinned down by heavy enemy fire on Monte Pantano - an unusual combat commendation for an unarmed Medical Officer..
Eisenhower’s bedroom and private quarters.
I learned that visitors can rent this suite for ~ $1,500/night.
Eisenhower's private balcony off his bedroom.
A wedding was held at the hotel while we were there. Here is the bride and groom. The bride is dressed in a traditional dress from Constantine. She will change into several dresses throughout the evening.
Conversations with our young Muslim guide, Luna, about controversial topics and different points of view, were both informative and enlightening. I was especially interested in learning more about Islam, and its role in the lives of Algerian women as well as its connection to the government, which Luna addressed with candor and from a very personal perspective.
Traditional North African dinner: "Tajine," a stew of meat and vegetables; the traditional clay cooking pot is also called a tajine. Couscous is almost always served with every meal.
Spicy and delicious condiments are served with every meal.
Dates are one of the country's major exports.
Most modern Muslim women in Algeria wear the Hajib, which is a metaphorical ”veil of protection” from negative influences. It symbolizes modesty, faith, and a commitment to Islamic values. At home, a woman can remove her hijab in women-only settings, and in the company of men (blood relatives) she cannot marry, such as a brother, father, grandfather, or uncle.
Algiers, 1944: My dad's typed caption on the back of this photo: "A Bevy of Bedouin Belles. I gave the little girl whose head can be seen right behind the boy's, a stick of "shoongom".
Modern Algiers' recycling bins.
Algiers 1944: my father's typed caption on the back of the photo: "One of the few well dressed Arabs I've seen. I think maybe he is an Arabian (French) soldier."
Algeria was a French colony for over 150 years. Here you see the pervasive French influence on Algerian architecture and decor.
Algiers, Algeria, 1944; my father's typed caption on back of photo: "Sidewalk cafe. French sailor on left. Native Arab seated right."
The Algerians love their Futbol (soccer) teams, primarily the "MCA," one of the oldest and most beloved teams. Here is Algiers' Futbol stadium right on the Mediterranean. What a setting!
The Martyrs' Memorial and Museum honors the lives lost in the Algerian War for liberation from French Colonial rule, 1956-1962. Algeria was a French Colony from ~1830 - 1962. This concrete monument is composed of three stylized palm leaves representing the three stages of Algeria's struggle for independence. Situated on a hill in Algiers, it overlooks the bay and marks the site of an old military for under it.
The memorial opened in 1982, twenty years after the country gained independence from France. Beneath its three soaring concrete "palm leaves," is an eternal flame, honoring those who died in the Algerian War of Independence (1954–1962).
This 92-meter monument also features three soldier statues, representing the three phases of the Algerian War, at the base of each leaf and houses the National Museum of the Mujahid underneath.
A Berber soldier in a traditional burnoose of his tribe. During the Algerian War, all of the Berber tribes had to organize and unify.
The Algiers' Martyrs' Monument, lit up at night.
The rugged Atlas Mountains act as a barrier between the Mediterranean and Sahara Desert. In February 1943, U.S. troops had to cross this icy/snowy mountain range to reach Tunisia.